WILDLIFE 

Wildlife is abundant in many parts of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.  Mule deer, moose, elk, American pikas, porcupine, long and short-tailed weasels, pine martens, yellow-bellied marmots, wolves, coyotes, mountain lions and bears (both black bears and grizzly bears) reside in some of the forested valleys and canyons.   On barren ridges and at higher elevations, mountain goats, bighorn sheep and the a more rugged population of American pikas and yellow-bellied marmots, somehow have figured out a way to thrive up this high.  Pikas for example, collect vegetation during a short growing season, and spend the winter in the spaces between rock structures.  These spaces are known as voids or interstices.  The American Pika does not hibernate.  Yellow-bellied marmots also spend the winter between rock structures, though they hibernate.    Across the range, High Country Bumble Bees can be observed from April to September,  including queens, workers and males.  During the spring, summer and early fall, you may catch a glimpse of the Water Pipit, Mountain Bluebirds, Horned Lark, White-crowned Sparrow, Black Rosy Finch, and Robins.   Apparently there have been sightings of the Golden Eagle, Common Raven, Prairie Falcon, Rock Wren, and Lincoln's Sparrow during the summer.  Many other animals call the Beartooth Mountains home.  Give all of them space and let them enjoy their home.

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DRINKING THE WATER

Water is plentiful in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.  Liquid water can be found in lakes and streams.  Frozen water in the form of ice and snow can be melted using heat.  Unless water is boiled for 3+ minutes, be sure to filter water before drinking it.    Using a water filter or purifier removes dangerous bacteria like E. coli, giardia and cryptosporidium, which can make people seriously ill.  Boiling water for 3+ minutes can kill dangerous bacteria, protozoa, and even viruses  (like norovirus), but boiling requires a lot of stove fuel or a campfire.  Water treatment is important to prevent you from getting sick. Not all water sources are unsafe, but even the most clear, pristine-looking stream or lake can contain dangerous bacteria like E. coli, giardia and cryptosporidium.  If wildlife or humans reach an area, so can contaminants transmitted via their fecal matter.  As more and more humans hike the Beaten Path and explore this wild and beautiful trail, potential contamination levels rise.  Don't play intestinal roulette when there are so many options for treating your water.  Options include boiling with heat, ultraviolet treatment, filtering, and chemicals (such as iodine and chlorine).  If boiling water is not possible, a combination of filtration and chemical disinfection is the most effective pathogen reduction method in drinking water for backcountry or travel use.

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Dan Pendergraph, a researcher at the University of Montana, hiked to 21 lakes in the Beartooth Mountains looking for indications of human feces that had contaminated the waters.  The lakes he sampled included the Froze to Death Plateau near Granite Peak, the state’s highest mountain at 12,807 feet. He also visited lakes along the Beaten Path, a trail up the East Rosebud Creek drainage, and the Lake Fork Rock Creek drainage.  Out of the 21 lakes and two snowmelt sites, both on Froze to Death Plateau, water samples from 11 tested positive for E. coli contamination. The bacteria is commonly found in the gut of humans and animals where it helps with digestion.  Once outside the gut, though, the bacteria can be nasty. According to the Forest Service the “bacteria and viruses found in human feces are known to cause hepatitis, salmonella, giardia and other gastrointestinal diseases.”  After the 11 E. coli positive hits, Pendergraph and his assistant hiked back to most of those waters and four new waters that might be contaminated to take samples to determine what might be the cause: human or animal. Out of the tests, seven of 15 were positive for human contamination.

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NATURE'S FOOD

Determine how much food and water to pack based on how long and how strenuous the hike is and then pack a little bit extra.  If you bring a water filter, you can significantly reduce the amount of water you carry on the hike.  Whether you're doing a quick overnight trip or backpacking for multiple days, you'll want food that will help rebuild muscle, nourish and strengthen your body.  The food should taste good too.  Keep in mind that an "average-sized" woman or man apparently has enough fat on their body to survive for an average of 50 days without any food.  Even without food, the human body absolutely does need water to survive.  In other words, if a bear takes all of your food, theoretically, you can live off your fat reserves for an average of 50 days or until you reach one of the trailhead.

 

If a bear or nasty hiker steals your food, you might be able to find edible food along the trail.  Some berries are delicious and nutritious, others bitter and deadly.  Edible berries of the wild include Serviceberry (also known and Juneberry or Saskatoon), Wild Strawberry, Mountain Huckleberry, American Raspberry, Chokecherry, Grouseberry, Gooseberry, Black Currant, Thimble Berry, and Kinnikinnick / Bearberry.   All pine needles are edible, and younger needles tend to have a milder flavor that works better for cooking.  A diverse array of fungi grows below and above treeline. Some of the fungi is edible, some is not.  Two edible mushrooms we have found in mid-August along the Beaten Path include King Bolete and the Chanterelle.   Mushrooms can be found tucked under willows, in meadows and grasslands, and in mosses.  Apparently a survey of alpine mushrooms on the Beartooth Plateau has revealed over two hundred species of mushroom-producing fungi (Source Dr. Cathy Cripps, Montana State University.  Her decades-long ecological and taxonomic work has revealed the diversity of mushrooms on the Beartooth Plateau. She is lead author of “The Essential Guide to Rocky Mountain Mushrooms by Habitat”, editor of “Fungi in Forest Ecosystems” and “Arctic and Alpine Mycology 8”, and author of numerous scientific papers.)  

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BEARS

Both Black bears and Grizzly bears have lived in the Absaroka-Beartooths for a very long time.  If we hike the Beaten Path, you are visiting their home.  Bear attacks are unusual, and by being respectful and prepared, you’ll reduce the likelihood of an unpleasant encounter. Remember that when we’re in the backcountry, we are visitors in the bear’s home. We should respect their space like a good guest and aspire to give up the notion that humans are the dominant species. If we’re prepared and alert in bear country, we can continue to safely enjoy the wild places where these creatures live and rule.  Here are some things to remember when hiking in black bear and grizzly country:

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1. Carry two (2)+ Canisters of Bear Spray and Keep at least one (1) Bear Spray Canister Handy.
Always carry bear spray, and make sure it’s accessible. Don’t keep it in your backpack - a charging bear won’t wait for you to find it. Make sure that the expiration date has not passed. Bear spray is a more effective bear deterrent than a firearm, so carry it at all times when you’re in bear county. Bear spray is a deterrent made of red pepper oil (oleoresin of capsaicin). It inflames the eyes and upper
respiratory system. If used properly, it can effectively deter an aggressive bear.  Treat bear spray like a firearm.  Contents are under
pressure.   When purchasing Bear Spray, look for canisters marked “Bear Spray” or “Bear Deterrent” with an EPA registration, 1-2% capsaicin and capsaicinoids, and a 25-foot (8 m) or more range.  Leave your rifle or pistol at home.  

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2. Know how to use Bear Spray and Practice with it to be Proficient.
If you see a bear, don’t run. Try to stay calm.  In many cases, the bear will run away from you.  Make yourself look as large as possible, and don’t make eye contact with the bear, which can be interpreted as aggressive behavior.  Some people have escaped bears by climbing trees, while others have been pulled out of trees by bears. Generally, climbing isn’t recommended. Climbing a tree takes time, which you probably won’t have, and bears can climb better than you can.  In the unfortunate event that it does charge, stand your ground and don’t spray your bear spray until the bear is within 20 feet of you. Spray toward its feet, moving the can back and forth. The spray will float upward, forming an nasty-smelling wall between you and the bear. When the bear inhales this highly concentrated pepper spray, the bear will be often reverse course.  WHEN CAMPING, keep bear spray accessible at night.

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3.  Be Alert.     See the bear before you surprise it. Watch for fresh tracks, scat, and feeding sites including signs of digging, rolled rocks, torn up logs, ripped open ant hills.  Do not wear headphones and cautiously approach any blind corners in the trail while making noise (such as singing "Hey Bear").

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4. Travel in Groups
This is a simple and effective way to avoid bear attacks.  Apparently, bears are far less likely to attack a group of three or more. Making  noise when hiking, especially when the visibility is not good, you’re hiking into the wind, or when natural sounds like water might cover your approach. Talking or singing are more effective than bear bells. Remember, bears generally want to avoid you, and will do so if you give them the chance. I have often wondered how many bears have heard me coming and melted into the brush as I passed by. 

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5.  Be Extra Vigilant when Camping in Bear Country
Do not feed bears or other wildlife and keep a clean campsite.  Do not store food or any scented items in a tent, including clothing with food residues.   Before your hike, contact the local Forest Service office to learn about special requirements or guidelines for properly storing food while camping in the area.   Do not leave food unattended at a campsite and do not store garbage at camp site.  Instead, use bear-resistant food lockers and clean utensils and food prep area thoroughly after cooking.   At an undeveloped camping location, cook and store food away from sleeping area.

6.  Don’t let fear of bears keep you from experiencing the backcountry.

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HIKING CLOTHING - THE FUNDAMENTALS

Keep in mind, three things when selecting your hiking clothing and sleeping bag.  Insulation,  Ventilation,  Protection.   As we hike through the wilderness, we expect a lot from our clothing. It has to insulate us from the cold, vent and breathe well, dry quickly, and protect us from rain, snow, wind, and intense sun. We need to be able to deal with a variety of changing conditions under variable temperature ranges that fluctuate with aerobic activity.

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Safety & Comfort:  Having adequate clothing to protect and insulate you is really important for your safety in the backcountry. Being caught in a remote place with too little can get you into a dangerous situation. But there’s no need to live in fear; know your limits, prepare properly, and go with confidence, knowing that the combination of your shelter, sleeping system, clothing, and skills can get you through whatever nature throws at you. 

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Don’t Overpack; Streamline:  it’s very common for hikers to overpack, making backpacks unnecessarily heavy and bulky. That’s why it really pays to dial in an efficient set of clothes that perform as a system and can be easily be adjusted to meet changing conditions. Keeping your clothing system minimal and lightweight will increase your overall comfort by reducing the load strain on your body.

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Mix and Match: Keep it simple!  It is okay to wear the same basic, interchangeable clothing daily, and then supplementing them for special conditions or for different seasons. Everything the hiker wears or carries should be versatile, fit properly for layering, and match reasonably well for fashion purposes.

 

Layering: Plan to select clothing that can be layered and worn all at once for maximum warmth or paired down for utmost breathability. Tops, bottoms, hats, jackets, and even gloves should be complementary and work together harmoniously to create an outfit to suit your needs in the given conditions.

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Embrace the Dirt and Smell: Some pieces of your clothing system will be worn for the entirety of the trip, so it’s likely they’ll accumulate some dirt and smells along the way. But being dirty and a little stinky are part of the backpacking game, so embrace it and look forward to a luxurious shower at the end of your trip! To keep weight to a minimum, leave out duplicate items for the sake of cleanliness unless they’re truly necessary.  Carry multiples of socks and underwear, which we rinse, dry, and cycle between for the duration of our hikes.

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RIDING and PACK HORSES

While horses are allowed on East Rosebud Trail, this is not the most horse-friendly trail. This trail typically has a lot of hiking traffic and limited space for horses at camp.  Contact the Forest Service for more information.